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Mount Lhotse Expedition

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Mount Lhotse Expedition

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Mount Lhotse Expedition (8,516m)

Mount Lhotse Expedition, also known as “south peak” and a portion of the Everest massif is the fourth highest mountain in the world with an altitude of 8516m. Out of the three summits that Lhotse has the main summit is at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle is at 8,414m, and Lhotse Shar is at 8,383m.Lhotse is best known the fact that climbers mounting the standard way on that peak spend some time on its northwest face and for its proximity to Mt. Everest and. It is the least prominence, just 610m, out of all the 8000m peaks. However, Lhotse is famous for its great and exciting south face.

The south face of Lhotse inflates 3.2km within the 2.25km level distance which makes it the steep face of this size in the earth. It is a tough climb and rarely ventured. The Southern part of Lhotse is one of the most massive mountain faces in the Earth.

The initial route on Mount Lhotse Expedition is through Everest’s South Col. However, by 1955, even when the action on Mt. Everest, Lhotse was the largest unclimbed summit in the earth.  In 1956, The first people to climb Mount Lhotse Expedition were the Swiss duo of E.Reiss and F. Luchsinger on the West Face.

The South Face of Mount Lhotse Expedition though tried several times was fortunately climbed only by a Czech in 1984. On May 12, 1979, Lhotse Shar summit was moved and the middle summit rose only on May 23, 2001.

Lhotse Base Camp is situated alongside the Khumbu Glacier similar to Everest Base Camp. The segment during the rise has been consistently represented as the most serious is the Khumbu Icefall. This magnificent massif also contains massive commitment as it is little improved and gives interesting possibilities.

Mount Lhotse Expedition Face and Route
  • The popular route is from the north side through the Khumbu icefall which shares its length with Everest south path. The south surface is one of the most powerful walls in the Himalayas. The initial expedition from the south side is Yuogo Slavian which is led by A.Kunaver. They picked the left side of the wall, but they did manage to get to 8100 meters. Three teams of police tried to climb within the left wall in 1989, 1985, and 1987. The highest point they were able to reach was only 8300 meters.
  • The western side of Lhotse is recognized as the Face of Lhotse. Any climber secured for the South Col on Everest need to climb this 1,125m of blue glacial ice. This begins at 40 and 50-degree angles with the occasional 80-degree points. Two rocky parts called the Yellow Band, and the Geneva Spur prevent the icy ascent on the top part of the front.
  • Few months after Cesen’s climb, in 1990, the south face was climbed by the Russian expedition. They define the wall “challenging to be climbed by a separate person”.

Magic Mountains Treks & Expedition gives very friendly, helpful and professional assistance from during the climb and also from Kathmandu to the ABC. Our purpose is to give a good quality, safe, helpful, friendly, comprehensive and stress-free service to maximize the opportunity of the summit.

Climbing Routes
  • Lhotse commercial route via Khumbu icefall and Northwest couloirs
  • The route is technically a difficult trekking path with a few uncertainty once past the Khumbu icefall, aside from a few seracs and crevasses bridged by ladders, couple small ice cliffs throughout camp 3 and rock parts guarded with fixed limits. There is a distinct danger of high altitude sickness changeable and unpredictable mountain climate.
  • The Khumbu Icefall is a sheer glacier with a clear implication of large gaps and dangerously unstable seracs making navigating confused and riddled with the high objective hazard of falling ice. This is the critical part of the climbing. At the start of the climbing point, Sherpa will fix the path within the icefall connecting ladders over crevasses and on vertical seracs ice walls for easy, efficient and easy climbing. These combinations make the climb of the Khumbu icefall practical and comparatively easy to climb early morning before the sunrise when the ice construction is well frozen. Khumbu icefall is very serious in the afternoon via its western aspect.
  • Camp 1 (6065m), situated on the top of the Khumbu icefall is an exposed, desolate and primarily used as a transition and rest area on the way to camp 2 (6750m). Even if the iceberg between camp 2 and 1 flattens, there are significant fissures near to camp 1, which are also set with ladders.
  • Camp 2 is positioned in a parallel moraine at the base of the west ridge. It is pretty sheltered with magnificent views on Lhotse. All the companies’ set-up their major camps for the continuation of the climbing period with tents for different climbers dining tents and the kitchen. Camp 2 is the chief acclimatization camp and the base for camp three acclimatization rise and the final summit attempt.
  • Camp 3 (7100m), located on a tiny ledge on the Lhotse wall can be reached when one crosses the glacier to the right side before 40deg 600m climb on the compact snow-field. The route is safe with a couple of short cliffs (less than 3m ice cliffs), which climbing Sherpas set up with rigid ropes.
  • Camp 4 (7920m) established near South Col is the final camp. It is quickly accessible by the majority of climbers without additional oxygen. There are two rock segments to navigate before camp 4: Interlayer marble, yellow Bands, semi-schist rocks, phyllite and Geneva Spur, an anvil fashioned rib of black rocks. They are again set-up with secured ropes.
  • From camp four the plan enters 500m couloirs around 40deg along a mix of pack snow, ice, and some rock.

Duration: 52 Days
Tour Type: Private and Group Tour
maximum Altitude: 8516 Meters
Trek Difficulty: High

    Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfers to hotel and welcome dinner in the evening
    Day 02: Full day Guided Tour in Kathmandu valley.
    Day 03: Briefing at Minister of Tourism and Civil Aviation, Tourism Industry Division.
    Day 04: By Plane: Kathmandu to Lukla (35min-2800m). Trek to Phakding (4h walking-2600m)
    Day 05: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (6h-3440m).
    Day 06: Acclimatization
    Day 07: Namche to Tengboche Monastery (6h-3867m).
    Day 08: Tengboche to Pheriche (6h-4243m).
    Day 09: Pheriche to Lobuche (6h-4930m).
    Day 10: Lobuche to Lhotse base camp (6h-5500m).
    Day 11 – 44: Climbing Period.
    Day 45: Cleaning up Base Camp
    Day 46: Base Camp to Pheriche.
    Day 47: Pheriche to Namche
    Day 48: Namche to Lukla
    Day 49: By Plane: Lukla to Kathmandu.
    Day 50: Debriefing at Tourism Industry Division
    Day 51: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
    Day 52: Drop off to International Airport

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